Caring for hand embroidery

Vastrarupa works with embroiderers in Lucknow who specialize in chikankari — a tradition of white thread work on cotton and cotton-silk blends, passed down through families for over a century. When you own a chikankari kurta from us, you own a piece of that heritage, and caring for it properly means it will outlast the season you bought it in.

The golden rule: turn the garment inside out before it meets water or an iron. The face of chikankari is the shadow of stitches on the reverse; the embroidery sits on the back of the cloth, and that reverse side is where the artistry lives. Crushing that reverse is how pieces go flat, lose their texture, and the embroidery begins to look dull. A gentle hand wash with cool water is ideal — a quick rinse under the tap, never a long soak.

For mirror work and heavier embroidery (zari and gota work), we recommend dry cleaning. A muslin bag in a gentle washing machine cycle is acceptable for fine chikankari, but it is kinder to hand wash. Mirror work should never go in a machine — the mirrors sit in a cotton frame that can snag. Instead, lay the kurta flat, fill a basin with cool water and a mild detergent, gently submerge, and rinse thoroughly in fresh water.

Never wring. Lift the kurta out of the water, support its full weight with both hands, and let the water drip out. Press gently against the sides of the basin to extract excess moisture. Iron on the reverse side only, on a low setting, and always with a cotton cloth between the iron and the embroidery.

Storage matters as much as washing. Store embroidered pieces folded in acid-free tissue, not on a hanger. Gravity pulls at the denser motifs first, and over a year, a hanger will stretch the neckline and shoulder seams. Keep pieces in a cool, dry cupboard, away from direct sunlight — UV light fades the thread colours over time. Check your stored pieces every few months for any sign of insects (camphor balls help).

A well-maintained chikankari piece becomes softer and more beautiful with age, much like a favourite book with worn pages. That is what we design for.